A Guide to Scotland in a Campervan
-
I’m fresh off two weeks campervanning my way around Scotland and wanted to share some tips if you’re ever thinking of going to explore what is commonly referred to as ‘proper Scotland’. My Mum & Dad bought a VW California a few years ago and kindly said we could borrow it.
Before we set off, there was no real plan— I’d spent some time flicking through a few Scotland travel guides which became my travel bibles on the trip. If you enjoy a bit of a social media detox while on holiday, it’s great to have some books to dive into instead of scrolling endlessly to find things to do or which campsites to stay at. I’d recommend taking Wild Scotland and Take the Slow Road.
These travel guides are filled with so many great suggestions that it can almost be a bit overwhelming to know where to start, so I decided to simply book two weeks off, hire an electric pitch at one of the recommend campsites and then see where the slow roads took us from there.
Newcastle to Loch Lomond
We picked up the camper from my parents in Newcastle, and headed to our first stop: Loch Lomond. We stayed at the peaceful Luss Caravan & Campsite, where our pitch looked straight onto the loch—an ideal spot for our first wild swim of the trip. We booked two nights to give ourselves time to acclimate to the camper and plan our next leg of the road trip.
While at Loch Lomond, we climbed Ben A'an - the perfect effort-to-view ratio. When you reach the top, the stunning vista overlooks Loch Katrine. In the evening we went for dinner at the cosy candlelit pub next to the campsite, The Loch Lomond Arms, delicious food and and warm setting before heading to bed.
Loch Lomond to Oban
After a morning dip in the loch, followed by porridge and coffee in the camper, we decided our next destination would be Oban. Overhearing various conversations at the campsite, this seemed to be a common next stop with a drive time of just under two hours.
On the way, we stopped at Inveraray, a pretty village on the shore of Loch Fyne. We stopped at Campbell Coffee, for delicious toasties and coffee. We ate them whilst watching two brothers fishing for crabs in the sea. We also took a quick look at the Inveraray Castle, which is home to the Duke and Duchess of Argyll. Reminiscent of a Disney fairytale with its many turrets—definitely worth a visit if you have the time.
Oban to Glencoe
When we arrived into Oban, we struggled to find a campsite that wasn’t fully booked, and neither of us felt brave enough to wild camp yet. So, we picked up ingredients for dinner and headed to Glencoe, where we found a relaxed, “room for everyone” style campsite called Red Squirrel.
Glencoe is incredible and by far my favourite part of Scotland we went too—surrounded by mountains it feels incredibly moody and dramatic. If you remember from the James Bond film Skyfall, scenes of his dilapidated, abandoned family mansion were filmed in the countryside around Glen Etive, which is located near Glencoe.
The campsite was beautiful, with a stream for wild swimming and a shop where you could buy a full kit to make a campfire. We set up our table and chairs around the fire, sipping red wine whilst reading and journaling. It was a real highlight of the trip.
Glencoe to Glenfinnan
From Glencoe, we headed through Fort William, known as the starting point for climbing Ben Nevis, and on to Glenfinnan to see the Viaduct. The the 21-arched Glenfinnan viaduct, is a location made famous in the Harry Potter films, so if you're a Harry Potter fan, this is a must-see. This is the location is famous for some of the most iconic Harry Potter scenes like the flying car from Chamber of Secrets.
The Jacobite steam train crosses the Glenfinnan Viaduct twice a day, which you can watch from a viewing point. We arrived a few hours before the train was due to pass over the viaduct, which is advisable as the car park fills up quickly. There were so many people gathered at the viewing point, excitedly waiting for the train to cross.
Although the moment was fleeting and the train wasn’t the Hogwarts Express I had envisioned (I half-expected Harry and Ron to be flying their car alongside it), it was fun to share the experience with fellow fans, including teenagers in full Gryffindor robes.
Glenfinnan to Loch Ness
Next, we decided to try our first wild camp before heading to the Isle of Skye in the morning. I was recommended an app called Park4Night, which helps find free camping spots. Thanks to Scotland’s right to roam law, wild camping is more accessible here than in England, although you still need to watch out for no overnight parking signs.
We headed toward Loch Ness, where I'd found a stunning looking spot on the app, overlooking Loch Traff—a tiny loch often overlooked in favour of its more famous neighbour. It was perfect: a quiet road, only a couple of other cars, a chance for wild swimming, and a wooded area where we set up a BBQ. Watching the ducks paddle around in the loch as the sun set was magical.
In the morning, we had breakfast at Cameron’s Tea Room, which had some Highland cows grazing in their field—I read they also have deer, which we didn’t see. The breakfast was delicious and worth a stop if you’re in the area to see either of the lochs, the Falls of Foyer or wild camp.
Loch Ness to Isle of Skye
Next, we drove to Kyle of Lochalsh, where you can cross a bridge to the Isle of Skye. On the way, we stopped at Eilean Donan Castle, which has been around since 1200 and has so much history.
We had a campsite booked in Skye, Glenbrittle Campsite, overlooking the beach. With the sun shining, we went for a swim in the surprisingly warm sea. The following morning, we enjoyed fresh almond croissants and excellent coffee from the on-site café after a morning jog. I also picked up a shampoo bar from their gift shop—it was my first time using one, and it’s now my new obsession.
We spent three days in Skye, during which we climbed the Old Man of Storr, visited the Fairy Pools (best to get there early on a sunny morning for a quiet dip), and explored Dunvegan Castle.
We stayed two nights at another sea-facing campsite called Kinloch Campsite—also highly recommend. Portree is the main town in Skye- I’d recommend Birch for cake and coffee, an Aussie-style café, and ÒR, a well curated shop filled with artisan gifts and creations.
Isle of Skye to Isle of Harris
Skye is popular with tourists, thanks to its easy access via the bridge, so whilst we had lots of fun on the island, I was eager to move on and experience a more remote island way of life. We headed to Uig where we could get the ferry over to Tarbert on the Isle of Harris.
Harris is a magical place, home to only 2,000 people. We wild camped both nights in a parking spot overlooking the sea. The island has undergone a transformation to encourage tourism, making wild camping simple, with marked council-approved spots, some with toilets and bins—just a small donation is appreciated.
During our time on the island, we stocked up on Harris gin and whiskey at the distillery, which was established as a social initiative to create jobs for young people after the local population halved. Harris Gin is infused with sugar kelp, and the branding is gorgeous—I’ll definitely be repurposing the bottle for flowers once it’s empty.
Talla a Mara is a lovely spot for coffee with a sea view, you can also stay here if you're in a camper of caravan. I'd also recommend checking out the Harris Tweed shop, you can buy ready-made products or the fabric itself for your own projects.
We drove around the island and discovered Croft 36, a fantastic little hut which a local family fills with award-winning, freshly made cakes and pastries each morning at around 11 am. We arrived at 11:30, just as locals and tourists were rolling in for their lunch pastries. It operates on an honesty box system, but you can also pay via PayPal. Stocked up with warm pasties, we continued our journey to Stornoway as we wanted to feel like we had seen the entire island and to reach the highest point on our trip, where we saw the Arnish Point Lighthouse—the windiest place I’ve ever been!
Isle of Harris to Berneray
Our next stop was The Uists, four islands connected by bridges.In the morning, we headed to Leverburgh to catch the ferry to Berneray. Leverburgh is a fantastic port, home to A.S Apothecary, where I discovered Wild Eve, my new favourite non-alcoholic spirit.
We spent our first night in an Airbnb, Kelley's glamping pod, right by the ferry in Berneray, enjoying a much-appreciated break from the camper after two nights of wild camping. Hot showers, a comfy sofa, and Netflix were heavenly!
Berneray is a peaceful area, we were so excited to spot three seals basking on the rocks. Didn’t manage to see any Otters though! Uist is inhabited by around 5,000 people and is known for its stunning white sand beaches. Unfortunately, we faced bad weather whilst we were there, which scuppered our plans to leave for the Isle of Arran the next day.
With no ferries going to or from the island, the remote, quiet lifestyle became very real as we spent an extra day and night there. There are few restaurants and no cinemas, so we spent most of our extra time in South Uist at the Kilbride Campsite café, hiding from the stormy weather, waiting for ferry updates.
South Uist to Barra
With no ferries running that day and no guarantees for the following two days, we managed to catch a ferry to Barra for an overnight stay and an early ferry to the mainland. Barra is a tiny island, and although we were only there for a night, it instantly felt welcoming, with signs for seal tours and places to hire surf and paddle boards. It’s known for having the only airport in the world with a runway on the beach—if we’d stayed longer, I would have loved to watch a plane take off or land.
We camped at Borve Campsite, run by the lovely Donald—an excellent site with super clean facilities that felt more like home than a campsite. All the pitches overlooked the crashing waves—completely surreal. We woke up 5am the next day to head back to the mainland and home. We’ll definitely be back to see the Isle of Arran; after our struggles getting off Uist, it felt too risky to attempt another adventure there just yet!
I really hope you found these travel tips helpful and that they've sparked some inspiration to explore the beauty of Scotland.